Never For Breakfast | The Jewish Week | Food & Wine

Never For Breakfast

Never For Breakfast

Seville oranges are small, bumpy and perfect for punch.

Facebook icon
Twitter icon

This is one of my favorite times of year. No, I’m not talking about the “holiday season” but rather the time when two exotic culinary treats come into season — Périgord truffles (which have become far too costly for me to actually buy) and Seville oranges.

Also known as bitter oranges, Seville oranges are small, have a bumpy skin and are only in season from mid-December until mid-February. Seville orange juice is sour, and more like the juice of a lemon than that of a navel orange. But what makes Seville oranges so special is their zest — it’s richly fragrant and loaded with essential oil — which for centuries has made them a “must-have” ingredient for orange cakes, marmalades and punches.

According to cocktail historian David Wondrich — whose 2010 book, “Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl” (Perigee), has spawned a “punch revolution” at cocktail bars across the country — Seville oranges are “the king of punch citrus.” In his book, Wondrich pieces together the Seville orange punch recipe of James Ashley, an 18th-century London publican whom Wondrich describes as “the world’s first celebrity mixologist.” When The Jewish Week recently asked Wondrich for a modern version of this punch, he replied, “It needs no modernization. It’s simple [to make] and incredibly tasty.  ... It’s a perfected drink.”

Ashley’s punch was made by mixing an “orange sherbett” with either rum or brandy (Wondrich suggests making it with a mixture of the two) and water. So before the Seville orange season disappears for another year, make sure you try a tipple of Seville Orange Punch. You won’t regret it.

nike air max 1 footlocker

Join The Discussion